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New Nozzle design

Hi All. 

I just  wondered, I recently bought a set of new nozzles to my HS. 

the design is somewhat different compared to the old ones, they have a wider angle close to the print area. 

Has any one tried these, but I cant get them to work, no matter at what setting it seems. i have tried to recalibrate the print bed, tried alternate print heights (increments by a hundreds of a mill), i have fiddled with the extrusion, but it seems no matter what I do, at some point the nozzle eventually scoops up some of the extruded material and thus ruining the print. 

It is not suppose to be this hard..... 


Hey Jens B,

I see that you tried recalibrating the print bed, but sometimes - specially when nozzles get replaced - it's good to re-align the nozzle heights to make sure the nozzles are the same height. Here's a link on how to do that : How to Align your Creatr HS Extruders

From the digital photo that you attached, you may need to try that and see if that helps.


Aaron C.

Hey Aaron

Well, the picture does not  tell, but I have tried to run one nozzle at a time, but surely, it make sense to realign both extruders, so they do not mess up all ready printed material. I normally do this.  

It seems I might now what is causing these problems with prints. The pinch wheel feeding the filament  was totally  worn out, really dull to the feel. Lpfrg are sending me some new ones, but I actually managed to source a couple which I believe are better made than the stainless ones that normally come with printer. 

The ones I found are made from steel and casted, so they will probably be a good deal harder. 

Testing now, will see how it turns out......  

oh no, I hope they go back to the original design, this flat geometry is shit. I have similar cheap ones like this and I also never got them to work. the flat surface rips or smears the melted filament immediately, impossible to get any usable result. I was just going to order new ones, but if this is the design i won't. I am having stainless steel nozzles made from a company but it take a while. Once I have them I'll post it if someone wants some. 

I am thinking of making the ultimate nozzle out of ceramic so you never need to change them again. ( but more expensive)

also i was doing some calculations about the precision of a nozzle, the must be VERY precise!!

0,5mm nozzle: a 0.01mm difference in diameter mean a 2% variation in extrusion is needed! 

0.35mm nozzle:  a 0.01mm difference in diameter mean a 3% variation in extrusion is needed! 

Haven't had the chance to test them yet, but discovered our last batch of originals were all varying in diameter. So i welcome the change providing they are accurate.

Hey Marc. I would surely be interested in a set of stainless nozzles, if you can source them? Perhaps even hardened ;-)? Have done a similar project involving hot water under pressure, precision and correct flow was key. In that case we found that synthetic rubys as a restrictor was the best way to go. Perhaps a synthetic ruby can be made as a nozzle, albeit not to cheap a guess. Anyway, one of the alternatives we had was a stainless hardened nozzle, this comes very close to the ruby in terms of longevity. But perhaps a reworked heatbreak combined with a hardened stainless nozzle is a better option. I would like to see a sealing surface, slightly cone/spherical shaped at the bottom of the nozzle and a matching one on the heatbreak. This way one avoids filament migration into the threads of the nozzle. The current design is very sensitive in just this case, if the heater block is not properly adjusted, then the nozzle will not attach properly (mate all the way), leaving a small gap between the heatbreak and the nozzle, allowing filament to migrate into the threads. What do you guys think, perhaps worth the effort? J
Ohh BTW, all though I got the extruders to work better, the nozzle design is still very bad. It seems there is a really small window of success. Currently I get it to work at 2000mm/min, 110 % with/height on first layer, at 40% speed. Bed alignment, 0.1 mm tightly set with a feeler gauge. But only at a 15-20% success rate, so definitely, not a good design.
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User Manual

Filament Guide

  • Extrude at ~ 225o C.
  • Requires heated bed.
  • Works reasonably well without cooling.
  • Adheres best to polyimide tape.
  • Filament tolerances are usually tighter.
  • Prone to cracking, delamination, and wraping.
  • More flexible.
  • Can be bonded using adhesives or solvents(Acetone or MEK).
  • Fumes are unpleasent in enclosed areas.
  • Oil Based.
  • Extrude at ~ 180-225o C.
  • Benefits from heated bed.
  • Benefits greatly from cooling while printing.
  • Adheres well to a variety of surfaces.
  • Finer feature detail possible on a well calibrated machine.
  • Prone to curling of corners and overhangs.
  • More brittle.
  • Can be bonded using adhesives.
  • More pleasant smell when extruded.
  • Plant Based.

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